I have not been impressed with any of the more recent Tom Ford Private Blend launches and yes, I’m still bitter about Amber Absolute‘s retirement. In fact, I think many of the “regular” Tom Ford perfumes are more interesting than the newer Private Blends! When I heard of the new Patchouli Absolu launch, I wasn’t expected much…and yes, I’m still bitter about Purple Patchouli’s retirement. However, with this launch, I smell a little “glimmer of hope” when it comes to this brand.
Let’s start this review with a reminder of what a patch-head I am. I love patchouli. Patchouli Absolu is a mossy patchouli that opens with a sweet, bittersweet licorice tea. Being a “patch-head”, I’m impressed by just how patchouli is in Patchouli Absolu. Patchouli Absolu manages to balance the oiliness and dirtiness of old school, natural patchoulis with the “clean earthiness” of modern patchoulis. However, there’s more going on than just patchouli in this one. In the background, there’s woodsy smoke, leather and spice which brings to mind powerhouse masculine fragrances of the late 1970’s/early 80’s. But, this isn’t some “period piece”. It’s a modern interpretation of disco-era designer masculines. This heart is all about the woods with a sweet, spicy skin-like accord. Patchouli Absolu dries down to sharper, drier woods and like this clean, musk-scented shaving cream.
I don’t think Tom Ford reinvented patchouli-as-we-know-it with this perfume, but I do think this is a really good modern patchouli that fits with Tom Ford’s design aesthetic of what we think the coke-snorting, penthouse owning, gold-chain wearing, rich and beautiful people of the 70’s would wear or own.
And I love the opening and the heart of this fragrance. I get lost at the musky dry down. But, I’m not going to lie. I still really like this. The catch though is that I prefer this much more on my partner than I do myself. What can I say, Patchouli Absolu smells really good on chest hair…
Notes listed include bay leaf, rosemary, moss, patchouli oil, patchouli couer (?), patchouli Clearwood (Fimerinch), guiacwood, cypriol, violetwood, cashmere woods, tonka bean, amber, musks and leather. Launched 2014.
Give Patchouli Absolu a try if you like patchouli or even old school masculines. Or if you like perfumes like Halston Z-14, Tom Ford Italian Cypress, Von Euserdorff Classic Patchouli, Tuscany Per Uomo and/or Donna Karan Labdanum
Projection is average. Longevity is above average.
Patchouli Absolu comes in three sizes with prices ranging from $215-$525 at Nordstrom.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Smoky, woodsy modern patchouli. Does this one reinvent patchouli as we know it? I’m going to confidently say “no”. But, do I think it’s a good patchouli? Yes. I don’t see buying this one for myself but I wouldn’t mind if the person I live with starts to wear it 🙂
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