Rebel + Mercury Bouquet is a perfume inspired by flowers, but it reminds me of chestnut honey. It’s a bitter and tannic spicy floral with smoke and leather.
Bouquet opens with lemon varnish and hay. There’s a hint of dried apricots and fresh leaves. The heart introduces some smoke with the florals. Bouquet dries down to a bitter immortelle. Because of the “greenness” in the base, I’m reminded of chestnut honey.
Naomi Goodsir is an Australian fashion designer best known for her leather goods. The house’s aesthetic is sort of couture Mad Max/haute punk. Extending the brand, the house added Cuir Velours, a boozy suede fragrance.
Cuir Velours opens with boozy rum and baby aspirin – and for some reason I love this. It then settles into this red wine and suede. And there’s French cosmetics – face powder and waxy burgundy-hued lipstick. It’s a mix of powder, violets and roses. The dry-down is a powdery incense… Continue reading | 13 Comments
Huitième Art Fareb is one of those fragrances that I would lump in the same category as Dior Eau Noire and Serge Lutens Arabie. And this category would be “smells like grandma’s house”. These are foody, spicy scents that remind me of grandma’s suppers.
Fareb opens as a spicy cumin laced curry over dried fruits. Yes, it’s armpit fruits. And yes, I like this. I pick up on dry but honeyed woods and some ginseng funk – earthy dankness. The heart seems cedary/astringent woods. The base… Continue reading | 1 Comment
Histoires de Parfums 1740 is a woody chypre inspired by Parisian artist, outcast, and scandalous writer, Donatien-Alphonse-François/The Marquis de Sade. The eponym sadism comes from his name. As you can tell, this man has influenced our culture. Now let’s see how he has influenced perfume.
1740 opens with a birch tar leather and camphoric patchouli. There’s a dash of cool spices and citrus but I’d never call 1740 bright. It’s rugged and worn. It’s an earthy, dark, animalic potion. With time… Continue reading | 9 Comments