Maison Francis Kurkdjian Ciel de Gum EDP Perfume Review

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Ciel de GumMaison Francis Kurkdjian Ciel de Gum was created as an exclusive for GUM Moscow. This explains the rather odd English word “gum” used in a perfume name.

Ciel de Gum opens as something that is distinctively Kurkdjian-y. It’s that lemon custard with indolic white florals (something I now associate with him). There’s a voluptuous jasmine and a grape-jelly orange blossom. The rose in this is fresh and velvety. This man knows how to treat a rose. The heart blossoms on the skin. The dry-down is a… Continue reading | 3 Comments


DSH Perfumes Keni EDP Perfume Review – New Kingdom Collection

DSH Perfumes Keni EDP

DSH Perfumes Keni is a relaunch from the Old Kingdom Collection, a collection of perfumes inspired by Ancient Egypt for the Denver Art Museum.

New Kingdom Keni is a cinnamon fragrance. It’s not sticks of Big Red gum. It’s more like cassia or dried, ground spice market cinnamon. And it’s cinnamon, tons of cinnamon. It all starts to remind me of a spice market – dried cinnamon, ground cardamom and cedarwood boxes. Keni transitions from spice market to temple. It becomes a smoldering incense… Continue reading


Malle Musc Ravageur EDP Perfume Review

 Malle Musc Ravageur

After years of wearing Malle Musc Ravageur, I took a sabbatical from this spicy musk. I moved on to other things. It’s been over two years since I’ve last wore it. With the cold weather and snowflakes in the air, I’ve started wearing Musc Ravageur again. Wearing it now, it’s a much sweeter and more gourmand fragrance than I remember. What I thought of as “sex kitten” fragrance now smells like Christmas and holiday confections.

Musc Ravaguer opens as a spicy blend of cinnamon and lavender… Continue reading | 7 Comments


Etat Libre d’Orange Noel au Balcon EDP Perfume Review

Etat Libre d'Orange Noel au Balcon

I’ve never been a person that likes “Christmas” scents. I find them nauseating and honestly, I don’t have any positive associations with this time of year. I wanted to try Noel au Balcon for the nigella note. Nigella is a seed with a spicy, herbal “green” flavor that is used in Armenian string cheese. It’s one of my favorite spices. Because it has an “onion-y” quality*, this is why I suspect it isn’t used in perfumery. However, seeing it listed made me curious and… Continue reading | 6 Comments


DSH Perfumes Megaleion EDP Perfume Review – New Kingdom Collection

DSH Perfumes Megaleion

DSH Perfumes Megaleion is one of the four fragrances in the New Kingdom Collection, a collection of perfumes inspired by ancient Egypt. If you’ve been in the niche game for awhile, Megaleion may sound familiar. This is a relaunch and a rework of DSH’s original which was an interpretation of the “world’s first designer perfume”.

Megaleion has tons of cinnamon spice and black cardamom in the opening. Megaleion becomes more complex. Spices, woods, dry dirt, vanilla-ish grasses, smoke. Magaleion smells ancient, like something… Continue reading | 1 Comment