ROSE WEEK 2019 – A Coffee Rose
It’s Rose Week on EauMG! This is the annual celebration of rose-centric perfumes! This week I’m reviewing 5 fragrances that display a different aspect of rose perfumes.
Pekji is an indie brand of perfumes based in Istanbul that is now available in the U.S. I should probably start out this review with a disclaimer that the perfumer was a friend of mine before he launched his brand. It’s not uncommon that such a relatively small niche would bring people together and they’d become friends, right? I am throwing this out there because I try to be aware of my own biases in every aspect of my life. However, I want you all to know that if I didn’t like something, Ömer would be the first to know and I wouldn’t sugarcoat it. I want my friends to all experience success and happiness but I also don’t want them to fail. So, you better believe I’m going to be honest. But, here’s the deal, I haven’t had any conflicts because I genuinely love the line. In fact, I first tried Ruh in a “blind sniffing session” last year without knowing it was made by my friend. I was obsessed and wanted to know who made it. Even I was shocked when I found out because it was just so dang good…
The opening of Ruh is a fruity jasmine. It’s like overripe stone fruits and heady white florals. This plum-jasmine opening reminds me of something like Indult Isvaraya, one of my favorite jasmine-centric perfumes. As Ruh wears, it becomes a spiced rose with Turkish coffee. The rose in this is velvety, deep and soft. It’s not like I just smell it, but I can feel it. The green cardamom is absolutely stunning (and if you are one that loves that note as much as I do, you should try this). The saffron comes across almost like apricot fruit leather but also like a leather-leather (think like a black moto jacket). A velvety rose with a balsamic amber and India ink dominate the heart. The dry-down of Ruh is like an amber in a sauna. It’s warm and steamy with a hint of salty, warm skin. The rose, that stayed dedicated to the perfume throughout its wear, is jammy in comparison to what it was before. It’s a lovely addition to the salty-amber/ambergris.
When a perfume claims to have coffee, I usually avoid it. I have no desire to smell like coffee grounds. As I’ve said before in my review of Tom Ford Cafe Rose, a real rose oil, before it’s diluted to what we usually experience in perfumery, has pungent notes of roasted coffee. It makes sense to pair a rose with coffee. In the case of Ruh, it goes beyond sense. The interaction of the white florals, coffee, rose and cardamom makes for a rose perfume that goes beyond the cliches. It’s a full-bodied rose where the additional notes don’t come across as fillers but instead, like a composition. As I’ve mentioned before, I was friends with Ömer before he launched the brand. We would joke about “bullshit roses”, the sort of roses that existed in every luxury collection but offered us nothing new. Ruh is not a bullshit rose. It’s a thoughtful rose, just like a perfume should be.
Notes listed include saffron, rose, cardamom, jasmine, coffee, oud, musk, amber and woods. Launched in 2015. PERFUMER – Ömer Ipekçi
Projection and longevity are average.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Turkish coffee and roses. This is one of the few rose-centric perfumes that I would recommend to both those that are rose obsessed (like me) and those that loathe rose.
Want more reviews? Try…
*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from the brand. Kate Moss pic from doitinparis.com.