ROSE WEEK 2017 – A Rose Chypre
It’s Rose Week on EauMG! This is the annual celebration of rose-centric perfumes! This week I’m reviewing 6 fragrances that display a different aspect of rose perfumes.
I’m not really one to keep secrets, but I do like a perfume that seems like it has more than a few secrets. Papillon Tobaccco Rose is one of these perfumes. It’s a dark “Neo-Noir” rose chypre that wears like a femme fatale peering out of the shadows.
Tobacco Rose opens with spicy, dried rose petals and an icy cool blackcurrant and geranium. It’s a dusty, bittersweet rose with a brilliant addition of animalic beeswax, like a candelabra being carried own a hallway… The dry-down is a balsamic, bitter moss with a velvety, raspberry Bulgarian rose. The overall feel of Tobacco Rose is dark, moody and gothic. It’s like the rose perfume equivalent of an imposing, off-limits Victorian house on a hill that is the source (and setting) of all the town’s ghost stories. All the stories involve a young woman and you never really know what happened to her fiance…
When Tobacco Rose was first launched, I said it was a “No Bullshit Rose”. So many rose compositions rely on other notes to spoon feed you a Rose. Instead of relying on crowd-pleasing vanilla, amber or woods, we are given a bitter, decaying rose. It’s really the sort of perfume for people that love smelling like perfume.
Notes listed include Bulgarian rose, rose de mai, oakmoss, ambergris, beeswax and peru balsam. Launched in 2014. PERFUMER – Liz Moores
Give Tobacco Rose a try if you like rose chypres or “dark” roses. Or perfumes like DSH Perfume Rose Vert, Union Gunpowder Rose, Providence Perfume Co. Moss Gown, Shiseido Classic/Original Zen, Amouage Jubilation for Women and/or Acqua di Parma Profumo. Try this one if you prefer for your florals to be wilting rather than in full bloom.
Projection and longevity are above average.
The 1.7 oz bottle retails for $155 at Indigo Perfumery. Samples are also available for purchase.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Dark rose chypre. I own many rose perfumes, but I need more like Tobacco Rose in my life. Out of the niche roses launched over the past few years, this one could easily be one of my favorites.
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