If you live in the U.S., I’m sure you’ve noticed a huge influx of Ormonde Jayne perfumes. It seems like everyone is carrying them. I’m not complaining. This has always been a brand that I liked but because of distribution and the fact that I never travel to London, I wasn’t buying anything from them. Now that I can actually sample and wear the brand, I’m finding there’s a lot of Ormonde Jayne perfumes that I’ve missed out on, such as Vanille d’Iris.
When I first tried Vanille d’Iris, I knew it would be something that I’d like to own. I love a good “bready iris”. I know this isn’t a description that appeals to everyone. But, I also know that there are other weirdos like myself that are drawn to these sort of irises.
The opening of Vanille d’Iris is like bergamot, spice and freshly grated carrots. It’s cool; yet, it’s bright and radiant. It’s also sweet in the opening, like benzoin-vanilla. After wearing it a few more times, the sweetness is almost buttery and the carrots are glazed. The heart is one of those buttery irises with vague “floralness”. Because of it’s butteriness, it sort of comes across as doughy/bready. This is a quality that I love in an iris but I also understand that it is a quality that others don’t like. There’s also a peachiness in the heart (from osmanthus) that comes across like peach preserves. It dries down to a powdery but somehow creamy vanilla-iris. It’s like an iris custard.
Vanille d’Iris is “one of those” irises that I like. It’s an odd association to have with an iris perfume, but Vanille d’Iris reminds me of farmer’s markets or shopping at a nice grocery store. It’s like a baguette, peach preserves, gnarly-looking carrots, a pint heavy cream (in a glass bottle, of course) and a small bouquet of purple irises.
Notes listed include coriander, Sicilian bergamot, carrot seed, pink pepper, orris absolute, jasmine, magnolia, osmanthus, vanilla, cedar, vetiver, amber and musk. Launched in 2015. PERFUMER – Geza Schoen
Give Vanille d’Iris a try if you like a “bready” iris or the thought of carrot-oriental perfume thing. Or perfumes like Prada Candy, Montale So Iris Intense, Huitième Art Naïviris, Honoré des Prés I Love Less Carottes, Dior Homme and/or Serge Lutens Une Bois Vanille.
Projection and longevity are average. I find with all the Ormonde Jaynes that they last longer than I think they do. I get used to them but hours later someone will say something about what I’m wearing, so I know it’s still sticking around even though I’ve long forgotten about it. It wears like any other Geza creation. This means that is hovers and projects. You may not notice it but other people will. They all pack a punch without being overwhelming or suffocating. I mean, this is a British brand, it’s going to be polite.
Vanille d’Iris comes in a few sizes with the 1.7 oz retailing for $150 at Osswald. Samples are also available for purchase.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Bread and butter iris. I bought a little set of Ormonde Jayne perfumes and this is the one that I have worn the most. I guess I like smelling like a niche perfume’s version of a farmer’s market.
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