Like many other designer brands, Thierry Mugler has also launched a line of “exclusive” (AKA more expensive) line-up of perfumes sold at select locations and costs a lot more than their other fragrances. I guess this shouldn’t surprise me since everyone has a more expensive, limited distributed line of perfumes all in uniform bottles. But, I guess this is also what surprised me. Mugler has seemed to always do their own thing. I told myself that I’d try Les Exceptions if they came my way but I wasn’t going to go out of my way to try them. (My excuses: There are too many. I don’t need anymore pricey perfumes. But, mainly I didn’t want to be disappointed because I have so much respect for the brand). Anyway, I have samples of Les Exceptions now and I’m out of excuses. I started with their oud because everyone has one and I wanted to see what Mugler was going to do with oud.
Woodissime smells leathery. It’s like a new leather jacket and smooth woods. But, there’s also an unexpected fruitiness, like stewed stone fruits (lots of that juicy plum that shows up in Serge Lutens oriental perfumes). As it wears, it’s like leather and a chewy, peach-y osmanthus. This mixes with sweeter incense like sandalwood and benzoin. I also swear I get some sort of powdery, vanillic-fruity floral such as heliotrope with a sweet floral like violet (or like lipstick). Some days I pick up on a nuttiness which I’m assuming is the oud. It’s not like sweet or like baked goods, but it’s recognizably nutty and oddly mushroom-y. Woodissime eventually fades into a soft woodsy fragrance heavy with the sandalwood and benzoin of the heart but now with an added patchouli (that is much more subtle than the patchouli in Angel!). I also notice the smokier, sharper palo santo and the sort of oud that’s in Tom Ford Oud Wood.
After wearing Woodissime a few times, I’m reminded of something that hovers between the fruity-suede of Serge Lutens Boxeuses and the the powdery leather of Chanel Cuir de Russie and the benzoin sweetness of perfumes like Prada Candy and Guerlain Bois d’Armenie. And then there’s the woodiness of perfumes like Tom Ford Oud Wood or YSL M7. I find it to be a pleasing fragrance. On me, the fruitiness and the florals are amped and I love how this contrasts with the woodsy, rugged notes of oud and gaiac. It’s sort of like an oud in drag and this is what I wanted Mugler to do.
Notes listed include oud, cedar, gaiac wood, patchouli, vetiver, osmanthus and sandalwood. Launched in 2016. PERFUMER – Jean-Christophe Herault
Give it a try if you like the style of Serge Lutens oriental (i.e. Boxeuses, Daim Blond) fragrances or the perfumes in Guerlain L’Art et la Matiére collection (i.e. Cuir Beluga, Bois d’Arménie).
Projection is below average and longevity is average. I’ve actually been really surprised by the restraint of the Les Exceptions line. Most Muglers are loud show-offs but with this collection, they’re much more refined and well-mannered. I guess this also fits with the uniformity of the bottles. For a perfume bottle in general, they’re boring but for a Mugler to be housed in such a dull vessel it makes me wonder what is going on in this world! My point – Les Exceptions is the Mugler line practicing great restraint. This is a positive or a negative depending on your thoughts on Mugler perfumes!
The 2.7 oz bottle retails for $225 at Nordstrom.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Osmanthus, suede and woods. It’s like fruity oud. I’ve enjoyed wearing it and I especially appreciate its osmanthus/apricot juiciness. However, I already own perfumes that remind me of this one that I also enjoy wearing.
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*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from the brand. B-actress Juli Reding from fanpix.net. She looks a lot like Mamie Van Doren here but she also looks like she would have walked down a Mugler runway in the 90s as a voluptuous wasp lady. Post contains an affiliate link. Thanks!