Years ago, when I tried (and fell in love with) Memo Shams Oud, the brand was impossible to get in the U.S. I had a kind “mule” bring it back from Paris. Fast-forward. Now the brand is everywhere in the United States! This is good. Accessibility is a wonderful thing. However, maybe it was the exchange rate, but I didn’t remember the full-size bottles being so pricey. Global expansion must come with some hefty costs.
OK, so Inlé Iris is one of Memo’s “special editions” or Escales Extraordinaires…so it’s even more expensive (over $200 more expensive than Inlé, their osmanthus tea fragrance). Let me see if I can sniff over $200 of differences.
If osmanthus could be a marmalade, that’s the opening of Inle Iris. It’s like dried apricots and oranges with a hint of florals. There’s also a cool, grassy accord that makes me think of early summer mornings.¹ The heart is a white floral looking at the world through apricot-colored lenses. I suspect a generous amount of hedione is in this. It’s one of those radiant, weightless jasmines that really projects. As it wears, it’s like a peachy, jasmine tea. As promised, there’s iris. A powdery, green iris grounds this effervescent fruity-floral. Eventually there’s an addition of white musk and that’s what makes Inlé Iris last on the skin. Overall, this is a radiant, sparkling white floral with a jammy fruitiness. It’s one of those prettier-than-reality perfumes.
I really enjoy this fragrance, but I’m going to be honest. It’s expensive and I don’t think it’s *that* much different from the original, cheaper Inlé. It is different. For example, I think this one is less tea-focused. It has more projection/longevity and there’s a powdery iris. But, $200+ difference? If it were me, I’d rather have two bottles from the “regular” line, but hey, all of this stuff is subjective. I can only speak for myself and what I would do.
Notes listed include bergamot, artemesia, mint, osmanthus, jasmine, mate, musk and iris. Launched in 2016. PERFUMER – Alienor Massenet
Give Inle Iris a try if you like osmanthus or radiant white florals. Or perfumes like Memo Paris Inlé, Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus, EB Florals Nick’s Sunflower, Shanghai Tang Spring Jasmine and/or Carven Le Parfum. I think this is a really pretty, non-suffocating but potent floral for summer. This is also a good perfume for those looking for a “fruity iris” (even though it’s more fruit than iris).
Projection and longevity are above average.
The 2.5 oz retails for $480 at Osswald.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Sparkling floral with marmalade and osmanthus tea. Like I said, I like it. If someone were to give me a bottle, would I wear it? Absolutely. But, I don’t like any perfume enough to spend this kind of money on it.
¹Hey, it’s mint! That’s what is in the note list and I can smell that now.
Want more reviews? Try…
Fragrantica – Member reviews
*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from the brand. Kathleen Martin from drmacro.com.