OK, perfume people, I can practically see your eyes rolling but oud as a “trend” is not gone. In fact, it’s most likely going to be around for a few more years. And I’m fine with that. It’s not oud’s fault. Beautiful materials will always be around.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian has launched a few Ouds this year and I’m finally getting around to trying them. Cashmere Mood is meant to be like a “second skin” oud. But, I found myself halfway through wear trying to shed my second skin like some stressed out python.
Cashmere Oud opens as spearmint industrial floor cleaner and tons of rosewood. It’s sharp and harsh. After it settles, I get “glue cheese” which is my play on blue cheese. It seriously reminds me of industrial glue and blue cheese. And this is all too much for my delicate senses. But, I resist the urge to scrub. Eventually Oud Cashmere Mood settles into a very resinous oud with smoky leather. Hours and hours later I get a soft benzoin vanilla suede. The dry-down is the best part of the entire fragrance in my opinion; it’s beautiful. I think this is the “second skin” but it took like 8 hours to get there. As something marketed as “second skin” it was too loud for 8 hours.The first 8 hours of this fragrance and I don’t agree but I sure like this base.
I should have started this review with a disclaimer that I like ouds that aren’t oud-y. I like them drunk on roses or sweet notes like vanilla. This is my preference and I realize that straight-up ouds are the preference of some. And this is a straight-up smoky oud for most of the wear.
Notes listed include benzoin, vanilla, labdanum and oud. Launched 2013. PERFUMER – Francis Kurkdjian
Give Oud Cashmere Mood a try if you like straight forward ouds. Or smoky fragrances. Or if you like Histoires de Parfums Petroleum, Montale Aoud Musk, Knize Ten, Le Labo Patchouli 24 and/or Tauer Lonestar Memories. Oud Cashmere Mood is unisex but it reads as very masculine to my nose (so smoky and an absence of florals).
Cashmere Mood has above average projection and longevity. It really hangs around. It’s one of those 24+ hour fragrances.
The 2.4 oz bottle retails for $375 at Parfumerie Nasreen. Samples are also available for purchase.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Industrial glue and blue cheese oud with lots of smoke. Too much for me but I know certain perfume people that are into this sort of thing. I’ll never be an oud snob. I’m too sensitive. I like my ouds with a spoonful of sugar.
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Kafkaesque – Yep, cheese.
Persolaise – Yep, glue.
I cannot wait to read your review of Velvet Mood. That one is challenging..
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