Purple Flowers Week 2012
In 1999 Guerlain made a Chamade for men to go with the feminine Chamade of 1969. It was a limited edition but now it’s back. I’m reviewing the most current Chamade Pour Homme, the one in the ugly bottle that is in Les Parisiens Collection.
Chamade Pour Homme opens with spices, juicy citrus-evergreens and some crisp greens. It smells masculine, crisp and fresh. I admit that I get a bit of Pine-Sol cleaner in the top but strangely, it doesn’t bother me. When the fragrance warms up on the skin, it gets dandier! I get fresh spring florals and I do notice the hyacinth. It’s floral but masculine. These cool, fresh florals are accented by warm spices. And then it starts to remind me of Guerlain Coriolan because of the violet and chypre-ness of it all. The base is “new” leather with a touch of moss and woods. No vanilla! Chamade Pour Homme has a “dampness” throughout the wear.
What I like about Chamade Pour Homme is what some people may dislike about it. It reminds me of those big 80’s masculines, something like Caron 3eme Homme. There is so much in Chamade Pour Homme. Some of us pick up on the florals, some of us pick up on the leather, and others on a damp vetiver. I think it’s a great masculine and I’m surprised that the reviews aren’t more positive. But, then I step back and think that it would be a great masculine in Guerlain’s permanent, non-exclusive collection. If they did that, this scent would be much better than most of the mainstream masculines on the market. It smells great but not “exclusive”.
Notes listed include Italian bergamot, black pepper, hyacinth, violet leaves, nutmeg, vetiver, leather, and precious woods. PERFUMER – Jean Paul Guerlain
Give Chamade Pour Homme a try if you want a masculine floral or if you like perfumes like Caron Troisieme Homme, Guerlain Coriolan, Byredo Baudelaire, Dior Fahrenheit, and/or Guerlain Habit Rouge. I find Chamade Pour Homme to be masculine in the late 70’s and early 80’s style of masculine perfumes. There’s a lot to smell in this.
I find that projection is average and so is longevity. I see Chamade Pour Homme going nicely with white collar shirts and business suits. It’s expensive but not daring. It seems business to me. Or if you don’t wear a suit to work, you may see this as a “special occasion” scent to wear with suits.
This fragrance isn’t available in the U.S. from what I understand. I have no idea what it costs. I’m thinking $200-$300. And yeah, that’s a little ouchy. Try Caron Troisieme Homme and see if you like it first.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – A dandy and sophisticated masculine spring floral. A masculine hyacinth. I think this is a great masculine but really should be sitting next to Vetiver and Habit Rouge and not in some hard-to-find exclusive collection.
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