Eris has launched a fourth perfume, Mx., a perfume named after a gender neutral English-language honorific.
One can tell from the copy, but maybe not from the note list, that Mx. is going to be something different for Eris. It doesn’t seem to be a very modern take on vintage perfumery themes. However, it does have animalic notes listed, something all the Eris perfumes share. Mx. opens with a note that reminds me of black licorice. This quickly fades into gingerbread. It goes through a stage where it smells like warm gingerbread straight from the oven – sweet, spicy with flour. But, it’s not like a gourmand. It comes across as modern because there’s some modern synth woods seeping through. The overall vibe is cozy, laid-back and well, “hip” and very now. The heart is diffused and gauze-like. It’s modern woods and a nutty vetiver. The greenness from the vetiver almost reminds me of fig leaf. I know it’s my mind playing tricks on me, making me think of other creamy, woodsy diffused perfumes like Hermès Santal Massoïa. The dry-down is like nutty vetiver, modern musk and a buttermilk-y palo santo. Throughout its wear, Mx. is a warm fragrance with a creaminess that’s never actually creamy. It’s like soft, warm skin.
I’m aware that products and fragrances by people that actually care about fragrance take a long time to complete and to bring to market. However, Mx. feels really “right now”, which I believe is what Eris exactly wants. (Like I said, this isn’t easy when it takes time to do things right). It checks the boxes of what a lot of people want in their niche perfume – woods, sweetness, musk and comfort. Mx. reminds me of the sort of perfumes that I smell on fashionable, young people in NYC, but it’s not what they are wearing (FYI – they’re wearing Byredo and Le Labo). I don’t know how to say this but Mx. is like a snapshot of what is niche right now and what people want. I actually see Mx. being really popular with people that are realizing there’s more to fragrance than Calvin Klein while they’re also figuring out how to best navigate this world. Mx. smells minimalist, fashionable and niche but also like a comforting hug. And isn’t that appealing for the times?
Notes listed include Indian ginger, black pepper, saffron, olibanum, Australian sandalwood, Virginia cedar, Haitian vetiver, patchouli, benzoin, birch, cacoa pod and castoreum. Launched in 2017. PERFUMER – Antoine Lie
Give Mx. a try if you like “modern” woods. Or perfumes like Hermès Hermèssence Ambre Narguile, DSH Perfumes Gingembre, Serge Lutens 5 O’Clock Au Gingembre, Byredo Bal d’Afrique, Fresh Cannabis Santal and/or Zara Tonka Wood. Really give it a try if you like perfumes from Byredo or Phlur. The base of this perfume reminds me of like a fusion of Byredo Bal d’Afrique (the vetiver) and the cocoa powder-unwashed-but still really clean-skin of Byredo Velvet Haze.
Projection and longevity are average. It does seem to wear close to the skin or maybe I get used to it (the musks).
The 1.7 oz bottle retails for $150 at Eris. Samples are also available for purchase.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Gingerbread and modern woods. It’s very “now” and that’s not a bad thing.
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*Disclaimer – Sample provided by the brand. I am not financially compensated for my reviews. Product pic from the brand. Kristen McMenamy pic from Vogue Italia 1994.