Eris Parfums is the line of perfumes created by vintage perfume collector and writer, Barbara Herman (of Yesterday’s Perfume). Barbara has been my source for all things vintage perfume related so I was so excited to see her not only write a book but launch this line of perfumes.
Belle de Jour opens as salty orange blossoms and musk. It’s both cool and warm with a metallic coriander and fur stole-like musk. The heart is a cool, acrid floral and musk. I’ve noticed a theme that with any perfume that claims to smell like a mistress, there’s a heavy-handed use of coriander (or a metallic-y ambrette)¹. Belle de Jour doesn’t have that marketing, but it very much has a “worn silk panties” thing going on. It wears as something cool, green and metallic like coriander and geranium but with airy, seaside florals. It dries down to musk, but not that thick, oily and “dark” musk. It’s a slightly white floral, luminous and bright deer musk.
Out of the trio, Belle de Jour smells the most modern. I love how it’s an update of two popular old-fashioned notes (orange blossoms and musk). I also love the subversive lingerie and fur theme that is experienced throughout the entire perfume but never really explicitly stated.
Notes listed include orange blossom, jasmine, coriander, incense, musk and seaweed. Launched in 2016. PERFUMER – Antoine Lie
Give Belle de Jour a try if you like the thought of something “vintage modern”. Or perfumes like Parfums DelRae Mythique, Malle Dans Tes Bras, Chanel Les Exclusifs No. 18 and/or Le Labo Aldehyde 44 Dallas.
Projection is average. Longevity is above average.
The 1.7 oz perfume retails for $150 at Eris Parfums. A sample set is also available for purchase.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Salty orange blossom musk. This is the sort of cool floral thing that I always find myself attracted to. What can I say? I have a type.
¹Examples: Parfums DelRae Mythique and Malle Dans tes Bras.
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