Seven Days of Eric Buterbaugh*
Eric Buterbaugh is a well-known floral designer based in Los Angeles. Last year, he launched a line of perfumes, Eric Buterbaugh FLORALS, inspired by the medium he knows best – flowers. The Noses work with Firmenich, creating many of my most-worn perfumes from designer to niche. I’m dedicating a week to reviewing this line because like Eric Buterbaugh, I too love florals.
In the real world of flowers, my favorite fragrance is hyacinth – little cool-toned bells working together to create an overpowering, bold fragrance that is heady, sweet and almost oily. This aroma, which I associate with Nowruz, is a reminder of new beginnings. For me, it’s a symbol of optimism.
In perfumery, the fragrance is different. It’s usually a supporting note in green florals. It almost comes across as a green jasmine or even as peppery/spicy. Green florals are my favorite genre of perfumes; however, I’m usually disappointed by hyacinth soliflores. Hyacinth soliflores usually come across as lilac soliflores or even more disappointing, they smell like commercial bar soaps. Eric Buterbaugh Apollo Hyacinth is a lovely tribute to hyacinth while using traditional spring-like notes.
Apollo opens as a crisp, green floral with delicate little dew drops. There’s a bright bitter orange zest instead of the sort of aggressive aldehydes that usually accompany fragrances in this genre. Once the citrus fades, it’s a frigid lily of the valley but there’s a hint of pear and honeyed pollen that adds a sweetness. Apollo is a cool, green floral in the vain of vintage perfumes like Guerlain Nahema or Dior Diorissimo. It’s cool but with sparkle, reminding me of diamonds. With time, I get hyacinth but it’s one of those cool, bitter green hyacinths that has a piquant quality (most likely from galbanum). I usually don’t expect much from dry-downs of perfumes of this genre. But, this one is perfect. It’s a bittersweet angelica with dried greens and a hint of pear nectar. I also swear that I get something that reminds me of shiso leaves because there’s this green, chalkiness to the base.
For someone like me that loves a frigid, aloof green floral, Apollo is close to perfection. It’s like silk and jewels and if it were a person, it’d never have a hair out of place. I have many green florals in my collection, but they seem almost “antique” in comparison to Apollo. Apollo seems more modern but doesn’t come across as any less elegant than the classics.
Notes listed include neroli, galbanum, pear, hyacinth, lily of the valley, angelica seeds, oakmoss, cedar and Haitian vetiver. Launched in 2015. PERFUMER – Alberto Morillas
Give Apollo a try if you like crisp green florals, hyacinths or lily-of-the-valley perfumes. Or perfumes like Dior Diorissimo, Guerlain Nahema, Jessica McClintock, Chanel No. 19, Serge Lutens La Vierge de Fer and/or Coty Muguet des Bois. I imagine the sort of person that wouldn’t like Apollo is the sort of person that doesn’t like cool, green florals in general. If you don’t like sharp, green scents you probably won’t find a hyacinth soliflore that you’d feel like wearing. I apologize for my unsolicited advice.
Projection is average. Longevity is below average in comparison to the other Eric Buterbaugh Florals.
The 3.4 oz bottle retails for $295 and the 8.5 oz bottle for $495 at Eric Buterbaugh. A travel size is also available for purchase.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Heady green floral that sparkles like a diamond and is a smooth as silk. Of course, I love it.
*The brand has eight perfumes but I’ve only tried seven and seven makes for an entire week of reviews!
Want more reviews? Try…
Perfume Posse – Reviews of them all.
The Scented Hound – More info on the entire line.
Basenotes – Member reviews
Fragrantica – Member reviews