I love rose in perfume because a rose has many different personalities. A rose can be a giddy school girl, a loving mother, a seductive siren or a strong sultan. I can’t think of any other note that can be so many “people”.
I tend to like more complex roses. I like gourmand roses, spicy roses, woody roses and yes, dirty roses. What is a dirty rose? I consider a dirty rose to be a rose heavy perfume that is mixed with earthy notes like patchouli or animalic notes like leather or civet. Dirty roses have an edge, they’re unisex and they’re not shy. I’m saving my jammy and spicy “dark” roses for another chapter…
Here’s a brief guide to a few of my favorite dirty, filthy roses.
A. Providence Perfume Co Rose Bohème EDP – This may be one of the filthiest roses I know. This is a natural fragrance blend of roses, red tea, saffron and oud. It verges on barnyard at times but the rose always pulls it away from being vulgar. I think this is a great masculine rose. The 1 oz. EDP retails for $115 at Providence Perfume Co. (Remember, it’s an all natural fragrance and has all natural oud. It’s not cheap.) Here’s my review.
B. Montale Black Aoud EDP – Montale has a more than a few “dirty roses”. Black Aoud is smoky, dark and mysterious. It’s a blend of leathery oud and roses. The 1.7 oz retails for $110 at Luckyscent. Here’s my review.
C. DSH Perfumes dirty Rose EDP – Hey, it’s all in the name! This really is a dirty rose with rose, oud, patchouli, cedarwood and styrax. This rose has a smoky campfire and leather smell. It’s too masculine for me but my husband loves it. And this “meaty rose” smells really good on him. The 1 oz EDP retails for $100 at DSH Perfumes.
D. Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan EDP – This is one filthy perfume. It may be a slight stretch of a “dirty rose”, maybe since it’s viewed more as a musk. I think it’s wonderfully vulgar. This is a dirty musk and earthy patchouli with rich, Middle Eastern roses. The roses stand out on my skin. The 1.7 oz retails for $140 at Aedes.
E. Histoires de Parfums Édition Rare Rosam EDP – This is a rich blend of roses with spicy saffron and incense over dirty patchouli and oud. It’s long-wearing and smells amazing on the skin. The 2 oz spray retails for $175 at Beautyhabit.
F. Malle Portrait of a Lady EDP – This is a grand blend of roses, resins and patchouli. It’s like a fusion of an ancient Middle Eastern perfume and a Victorian perfume. And boy, does this last on the skin. The 1.7 oz retails for $210 and is available at Barney’s.
G. Czech & Speake Dark Rose Cologne – Dark Rose is a dark, spicy rose over patchouli and amber. It stands out to me because it isn’t overly heavy and menacing but it’s still so “dark”. It retails for about $130 at Shop Londons.
H. L’Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses EDT – This is the granpappy of patch-rose. I love it. It reminds me of a rose garden at night. And yes, it’s patch-dirt heavy. The 3.4 oz retails for $145 at Beautyhabit . Here’s my review.
I. Knize 10 EDT – The first time I ever sniffed Knize 10, I was taken back. Where has this been my entire life? Where can I buy this? Knize 10, originating in 1925, is an amazing blend of classic citrus, a bouquet of rose and other florals over this oily castoreum and leather. The 1.7 retails for $70 at Luckyscent.
J. Pirouette Essentials Rose Musk EDP – Rose Musk is my “budget” scent in this guide that doesn’t skimp on quality. Rose Musk is a rich rose with a cumin-cedar that makes this unbelievale. The 1 oz retails for $32 (seriously) at Piroutte Essentials. Here’s my review.
I know that I’ve left out some “obvious” dirty roses and I know that I haven’t sampled them all. If you have any suggestions, please comment and add them to the list!
*Marlon Brando pic from www.fanpix.net.