DSH Perfumes has launched four perfumes in the collaboration with the Denver Art Museum for their Cartier in the 20th Century Exhibit, The Brilliant Collection.This is a collection inspired by jewels!
So, let me dive right into the reviews here:
Deco Diamonds with notes of neroli, peach, galbanum, aldehydes, sambac jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, honeysuckle absolute, oakmoss, sandalwood, civet and ambergris. Inspired by Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor.
Deco Diamonds is delightfully vintage smelling. It’s opening is soapy and green with galbanum and effervescent fruity aldehydes. It reminds me of something that would have been launched in the 1970’s as “sporty” but today we view it as refined and elegant. It’s funny how our perception of “green florals” have changed throughout the years…The heart is a white floral that leans more green. It dries down to a clean meets dirty base – a fresh and green mossy scent balanced by DSH’s wonderful dose of civet.
Give Deco Diamonds a try if you like retro green florals. Or if you like perfumes like Estee Lauder Aliage, original Oscar, Dior Diorissimo, Aramis Devin and/or Caron Muguet du Bonheur. I imagine if it were a jewel, it would be peridot – light, sparkling and green.
Rubis Rosé includes notes of red raspberry, pink pepper, red rose accord, ambergris, frankincense, myrrh, guaiacwood and oakmoss. Inspired by Elizabeth Taylor.
I love rose perfumes and I love Elizabeth Taylor so let me say that I have high hopes for this one. Rubis Rosé opens as a sheer raspberry rose with slightly fruity pink pepper. It’s a bright and aldehydic rose soliflore – feminine and reminds me of 1950’s Hollywood beauties. This rose soliflore dries down to a slightly animalic mossy rose. I love it. It really does make me think of Liz.
Give Rubis Rose a try if you like radiant rose soliflores. Or if you like perfumes like Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin, Viktoria Minya Hedonist Rose, Annick Goutal Rose Splendide and/or Jo Malone Red Roses. I think if this were a jewel, it would be a ruby or a pink sapphire.
Jacinthe de Sapphir includes notes of violet leaf, galbanum, bergamot, hyacinth, rose de mai, narcissus, tuberose, tolu, peru balsam, vetiver, styrax resin and civet. Inspired by Queen Marie of Romania.
Jacinthe de Sapphir opens as bitter and green galbanum and mud. This top is gorgeous, reminding me exactly of a spring rain. There’s pollen-y, heady florals with spice. Yes, there’s hyacinth but there are plenty of other florals too. There’s a darkness to Jacinthe de Sapphir; a slightly gothic floral. Underneath the florals and dirt, there are dusty vetiver and incense resins. It’s like hyacinths bathing in moonlight.
Give Jacinthe de Sapphir a try if you like spring florals. Or if you like perfumes like Caron Narcisse Noir, Union Gothic Bluebell, Annick Goutal Grand Amour, CdG Daphne and/or Coty Paris. To me, this one really does resemble an almost black sapphire, very much like Queen Marie’s Cartier sapphires.
Fumée d’Or with notes of birch tar, metallic aldehydes, jasmine, neroli and civet. Inspired by Parisian goldsmith workshops.
Fumee d’Or is like an iron gate and leather (and I’m picking up some sort of subtle raspberry jam accord). It’s like a smoky leather with flickers of metallic aldehydes. The jasmine in this adds a certain waxy sweetness that works so well with the rustic birch tar and “industrial”-smelling oud. It continues to wear as an animalic leather with a subtle white floral and honeyed tobacco sweetness.
Give this one a try if you like birch tar or tobacco scents. Or if you like perfumes like Le Labo Patchouli 24, Cartier Les Heures de Cartier La Treizieme Heure XIII, Imaginary Authors Memoirs of a Trespasser and/or Histoires de Parfums 1740 Marquis de Sade. I wouldn’t say this one smells like a jewel but it does remind me of gold and leather, making me think of Cartier watches. If you read the perfumer’s vision for this perfume, I think she nailed it.
Overall, I’m very pleased with this collection. These are all perfumes that I want to wear throughout the year. I really want bottles of Rubis Rosé and Jacinthe de Sapphir…and Deco Diamonds. Oh, well, just throw in Fumée d’Or because I’d wear that too. This is why I thought The Brilliant Collection was the best collection of ’14.
These perfumes come in a few sizes with the 1 ounce retailing for about $125 at DSH Perfumes. Samples are also available for purchase.
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*Disclaimer – Samples provided by the brand. I am not financially compensated for my reviews. My opinions are my own. Duke and Duchess of Windsor pic from markdsikes.com. Elizabeth Taylor in 1957 pic from instyle.com. Queen Marie of Romania from alexanderpalace.org. Jackie Kennedy wearing a Cartier watch from watch-id.com.