I usually avoid peony perfumes because, well, most of them are bad and give me a headache¹. Even though DSH Perfumes is one of my favorite indie brands, it took me some time to build up the courage to try a perfume called “Peony” because I usually don’t get along well with peony soliflores.
Peony opens as bitter and green. It becomes fresh cut grass and a citrusy rose. This does give the impression of fresh, dewy peony blossoms. Peony goes in a direction that I didn’t expect. It starts to smell like a vintage-y floral chypre. It’s a dusty rose, powdery violets and iris paired with a dry moss. The dry-down is a woodsy, slightly bitter sandalwood with oakmoss. And this is why I like Peony. It’s more like a rose chypre than those super-synthetic peony soliflores that are on the market.
Peony is the sort of peony perfume that I’m interested in. It’s a big “pink” floral that does bring to mind a peony bouquet; however, the moss and woods makes this one smell more mature than just “pink peony”. It’s surprisingly complex and of course, really “pretty”.
Notes listed include bergamot, leafy greens, petitgrain rose geranium, violet leaf, Tunisian neroli, peony, Bulgarian rose, ambergris, orris, Australian sandalwood, green oakmoss and patchouli. Launched in 2014. PERFUMER – Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
Give Peony a try if you like rose chypres or want a more complex peony perfume. Or if you like perfumes like Annick Goutal Quel Amour!, YSL Paris, Stella McCartney Stella, Diptyque Eau Rose and/or Fragonard Emilie.
Projection and longevity are average.
The 1 oz retails for $80 at DSH Perfumes. Samples are also available for purchase.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Rose and peony chypre. I think for a peony soliflore, it’s one of the best (that I’ve tried).
¹However, I did really like this one by Penhaligon’s.
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