I usually avoid peony perfumes because, well, most of them are bad and give me a headache¹. Even though DSH Perfumes is one of my favorite indie brands, it took me some time to build up the courage to try a perfume called “Peony” because I usually don’t get along well with peony soliflores.
Peony opens as bitter and green. It becomes fresh cut grass and a citrusy rose. This does give the impression of fresh, dewy peony blossoms. Peony goes in a direction that I didn’t expect. It starts to smell like a vintage-y floral chypre. It’s a dusty rose, powdery violets and iris paired with a dry moss. The dry-down is a woodsy, slightly bitter sandalwood with oakmoss. And this is why I like Peony. It’s more like a rose chypre than those super-synthetic peony soliflores that are on the market.
Peony is the sort of peony perfume that I’m interested in. It’s a big “pink” floral that does bring to mind a peony bouquet; however, the moss and woods makes this one smell more mature than just “pink peony”. It’s surprisingly complex and of course, really “pretty”.
Notes listed include bergamot, leafy greens, petitgrain rose geranium, violet leaf, Tunisian neroli, peony, Bulgarian rose, ambergris, orris, Australian sandalwood, green oakmoss and patchouli. Launched in 2014. PERFUMER – Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
Give Peony a try if you like rose chypres or want a more complex peony perfume. Or if you like perfumes like Annick Goutal Quel Amour!, YSL Paris, Stella McCartney Stella, Diptyque Eau Rose and/or Fragonard Emilie.
Projection and longevity are average.
The 1 oz retails for $80 at DSH Perfumes. Samples are also available for purchase.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Rose and peony chypre. I think for a peony soliflore, it’s one of the best (that I’ve tried).
¹However, I did really like this one by Penhaligon’s.
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Okay, the floral chypre aspect has really piqued my interest. I’m not usually huge on peony perfumes either, though I do love Charlotte by Sweet Anthem (though the peony isn’t the focus of that perfume, imo). I also feel like I really haven’t tried a lot of “pink” florals, so I’d like to expand. Thanks for the review!
I like the idea of “pink florals” but there are some really icky ones out there (like shrill and LOUD). However, I’ve found a few that I like (Parfums delRae Coup de Foudre being one of my favorites in that genre). I’m finding that indies are where its at if I want a “pink floral”.
This also reminds me to do a post of these. I think a lot of us like the idea but have been burnt out by B&BW, Victoria’s Secret, etc. scents and don’t know where to start when it comes to more posh “pink” that are still fun/flirty.
[…] DSH Perfumes DAWN Peony EDP (sample) – For a peony, I really liked this one. Here’s my review. […]
[…] you like rose or peony perfumes. Or if you like perfumes like Parfums de Rosine Vive la Mariée, DSH Perfumes Peony, Gucci Flora, Lili Bermuda Pink, Penhaligon’s Peoneve and/or Stella McCartney Stella Nude. In […]