Mainstream Monday – Sniffing a Popular Perfume
When it comes to Chloé perfumes, I don’t really have an opinion one way or another. When I do, they discontinue whatever I like (such as Love, Chloé). Everything else has been a rose-y flanker that basically define “generic perfume” smells. It’s not that those are bad; I’m actually genuinely in awe of their line for creating things that are so generic that I can’t even describe them. They posses a special power because there are few perfumes that make me shut up.
When Chloé launched Nomade, I was in no rush to try it. It marketed itself as a chypre and with this designer perfume’s record, I just expected for this to smell like a rose dryer sheet and not anything remotely moss-y or different from their massive catalog of Coty-fied roses.
Nomade smells like what the brand promises – a modern chypre. It opens with weeds that smell like an overgrown pasture mixed with a pleasant commercial perfume. It’s like lily and stone fruits (notably peaches and plums). I also start to pick up on a sulfuric grapefruit peel and tomato leaves. I also swear that I get lychee, basically all of the stuff that is not listed in the perfume’s note list. The heart of the scent has a hint of non-descript wildflowers/pollen, tomato leaves, blackcurrant, and well, sourness. Nomade is fruity and sweet but it’s weird because there’s bitter greenness throughout the scent. It eventually dries down to a dry, sharp, and green moss with patchouli and woods that seem like they’ve been put through the washer and dryer.
Over the past decade, there’s been many designer perfumes that promised us a “modern chypre”. However, I found those perfumes to be the usual fruity-floral compositions but with a base with the faintest traces of moss (and a lot of patchouli that has graduated from Fruitichouli Academy). To my surprise, Nomade is recognizably a chypre. But, it’s not an old school chypre. It’s modern enough and well, generic enough, to be sold to people that have no clue that chypre is a perfume genre.
Notes listed include Mirabelle liquor, freesia and oak moss. Launched in 2019. PERFUMER – Quentin Bisch
Give Nomade a try if you like sour fruity florals. Or perfumes like INeKe Gilded Lily, Jo Malone London English Oak and Redcurrant, Miller Harris Cassis en Feuille, Rochas Femme (modern) and/or Kelly & Jones Notes of Merlot. And maybe even stuff that is bitter and green like Annick Goutal Folavril.
Projection and longevity are above average. This definitely wears more like an EDP. When I wrote this review, I didn’t realize that there is an EDT and an EDP and apparently they smell different. I wish the brand would have done what they usually do and just make the EDT a flanker! With the way this one wore, I was shocked to find out that the entire time I’ve been sampling the EDT and not the EDP.
Nomade comes in a few sizes with the 1.7 oz retailing for $95 at Sephora.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Sour chypre. Personally, I don’t see myself wearing something like this but I appreciate that a mainstream designer perfume finally managed to make a modern chypre that isn’t ashamed of its oakmoss past.
*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Sephora. Grace Coddington in Vogue August 1966 from pleasurephoto.wordpress.com.