Over the past few years something unpredictable has happened. I’ve become a Chanel fangirl. I can’t get enough of aldehydes, iris and in general, aloof compositions. And if this is what you’re into, Chanel is the brand for you. And to me, it seems rather punk¹ for me to wear such austere, “official” perfumes. Over the past few years, I’ve welcomed quite a fe Chanels into my life. No. 18 from Les Exclusifs has been one that I’ve worn a lot of. It’s a minimalist yet very “Chanel” take on ambrette.
No. 18 is like a really, fresh and green olive oil with a minty, tangy geranium. It also opens with a bergamot green tea, so like an Earl Grey with green tea instead of black. There’s a green, spicy yet slightly fruity note in No. 18 that accents a very whispy, very Chanel-ish iris. The heart is like a “green”, living iris. It dries down to a warm “laundry fresh” ambrette. No. 18 is a rather minimalist fragrance. It’s like a vegetal ambrette, a “green” musk.
No. 18 is inspired by jewelry but it reminds me of dew drops on a spring iris. This is the image that comes to mind when I wear No. 18. And really that image could be the entire review, but I’m wordy.
Notes listed include geranium, iris, ambrette and white musk. Launched 2007. PERFUMER – Jacques Polge
Give No. 18 a try if you like fresh iris scents or ambrette. Or if you like perfumes like Diptyque Geranium Odorata, Annick Goutal Vent de Folie, Le Labo Ambrette 9 and/or Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur.
Projection and longevity are average for an EDT. I think a lot of people, because of the price, expect for Les Exclusifs to wear like an EDP. The fact is, they aren’t. And No. 18 wears like an EDT. I get about 4-5 hours of wear.
No. 18 comes in two sizes (2.5 and 6.8 oz) with prices ranging from $160 to $180 at Chanel.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Vegetal ambrette with a green iris. I love it when Polge goes minimalist.
¹Being that bold color hair, piercings, etc. are all now mainstream. I say that punk is the new pretty and pretty is the new punk.
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Hey there Victoria,
Though I’ve not really known you I am surprised that you weren’t a CHANEL fangirl until recently. Your writing always seems so polished and poised, exactly as I would expect from someone rocking the CHANEL line. They are grand and comfortable, and I love most of the line too.
Thanks for the Link Love.
Portia xx
It is surprising? I actually considered myself a “Guerlain Gal” and had a love for Caron. I mean, I still love both of those but I’m now really into Chanel. I can’t live without them! Seriously.
Thanks for commenting and you know I love APJ!
I hear you and I consider myself Guerlain all the way in my heart too. The problem is that Guerlain hasn’t made much lately that makes me reach for my wallet. I understand that they need to move with the times etc and I loved the Arabian set and Mon Precieux Nectar but everything else has left me looking elsewhere.
Portia x
I agree that Guerlain hasn’t wow’d me in years. Chanel has made me part ways with my money. I bought Misia and yes, I even liked Coco Noir.
So great to finally hear your opinion on No.18. It has been a favorite of mine from the very first time I sampled it at the downtown Seattle Nordstrom. I don’t always wear it, but when I do, it is usually for weeks…..I just can’t get enough of the dry down. It wears masculine on me, yet it reminds me of my grandmother somehow (maybe she wore it?) – which is another reason why I love the fragrance.
Great review and spot-on description!
I love it. It was love at first sniff for me. I love how it’s green but not green (if that makes any sense). And I love ambrette and this is one of the best for when I need an ambrette fix.
I’m surprised No.18 gets overlooked so much!People mostly rave about Cuir de Russie and Bois de Isles!To my nose it’s the best one from the range!Rosy-cheeked pale dewy iris!LoveLove!I have perfume loving skin,I mean I get a good 8-10 hours from 28 La Pausa without topping up!No.18 lasts forever on my skin too.Gorgeous stuff.
I tend to like the Les Exclusifs that nobody else likes. Now I know I’m not alone, lol.
I love No. 18. It’s fleeting but that doesn’t bother me. Actually, the other ones that I have like 28 La Pausa last forever on my skin.
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