The older I get, the more I appreciate that flamboyant style of Italian perfumery or at least “Italian inspired” perfumery. I’ve always liked these sort of sweeter, powdery florals but these days I actually wear them. Victoria of Bois de Jasmin wrote an article for Financial Times that briefly explains this Italian baroque style in modern perfumery. There’s a trend towards minimalism in niche perfumery¹ so I’m delighted to try perfumes that are opulent. Chabaud Lumière de Venise is a perfume inspired by ornate Italian perfumery and…Venice.
Lumière de Venise opens with this rich, oily bergamot that I’ve come to appreciate in perfumes. This sort of bergamot lets you know that this is the sort of fragrance that follows means business (AKA a perfume-perfume²). Lumière de Venise opens with perfume-y citrus and a milky peach. The fragrance becomes a rich, powdery and abstract floral with a balsamic vanilla. It’s powdery and sweet without smelling like baby powder or cupcakes. It smells like PERFUME. There’s patchouli and woods and more powder because a perfume like this needs all the things. The dry-down is soft with powdery iris, sweet woods and a balsamic oakmoss.
Notes listed include bergamot, grapefruit, jasmine, rose, violet, peach, oakmoss, woody notes, patchouli, tonka bean and sandalwood. Launched in 2015. PERFUMER – Sophie Chabaud
Give Lumiere de Venise a try if you like powdery floral ambers or modern chypres. Or if you like perfumes like Guerlain Eau de Shalimar, Keiko Mecheri Canyon Dreams, Miller Harris Fleur Or*ental, Chanel Allure, Michael Kors Sexy Amber and/or Lancôme Trésor L’Absolu.
Projection is average and longevity is above average.
The 3.4 oz bottle retails for $135 at Osswald.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Powdery floral ambers that’s an homage to that Italian style of ornateness. When I wear stuff like this I always wonder why I don’t wear stuff like this more frequently. I don’t have an answer other than I must think I deserve less from life.
¹ All those “molecule” perfumes like Juliette Has a Gun Not a Perfume, Escentric Molecules, Nomenclature, etc.
²A “perfume-perfume” is a perfume that smells like perfume. It won’t smell like a Mediterranean shoreline or strawberry jam. It’s going to smell like PERFUME.
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