Ummagumma is a new perfume by indie perfumer Bruno Fazzolari. It’s a perfume inspired by Pink Floyd, 1969, counterculture…you get the idea. Before even sniffing it, I wanted it to be something a little rough around the edges, earthy and well, hippie-ish. After wearing a few times, I can tell you, it is all of these things.
At first glance/sniff, I thought Ummagumma was an amber. But, it’s really an amber and everything else. It opens with a cool, metallic saffron and dusty cocoa powder. What I didn’t expect is a heavy-dose of resinous frankincense. And what I didn’t expect is for frankincense and chocolate to actually *work* together. The frankincense is one of those that comes across like evergreens and lemon peels. When the weather is downright freezing, I notice cinnamon/spices in this. When the weather is less oppressive, I notice the citrus-facets of the resins more. If I had to classify Ummagumma as anything, I’d say it’s an amber. It’s a coumarin-heavy amber that is like amber-tobacco. It’s a mix of tonka-sweetness and acrid resins. How this differs from so many ambers, is that it has a dusty, earthy quality. Ummagumma is a perfume that comes across as base-heavy. I’m not being a synthesiate here, I’m saying that it’s all basenotes (not all bass!). The entire wear of the perfume smells like other perfumes’ dry downs – amber, woods/cedar, tobacco, leather, chocolate…
Ummagumma isn’t a perfume that I’m going to wear. It’s just not my style. It wears heavy on me, like I’m wearing an ankle-length coat that is three sizes too big (and not in a cool Janis Joplin way). However, I’m reviewing this perfume because I know there are readers of EauMG that will absolutely love this. It’s a gourmand incense with leather and amber. If you like that “more is more”, rugged style of indie brands like Slumberhouse, you’ll most likely fall in love with Ummagumma.
Notes listed include saffron, carnation, chocolate, tobacco, leather, labdanum, sandalwood, cedar, frankincense, tonka bean and vanilla. Launched in 2017. PERFUMER – Bruno Fazzolari
Give Ummagumma a try if you like tonka beans or incense-y amber perfumes. Or perfumes like Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure, April Aromatics Calling All Angels, Serge Lutens Chergui, Penhaligon’s The Tragedy of Lord George, Slumberhouse Ore and/or CB I Hate Perfume Fire From Heaven. It also reminds me of a more complicated Byredo Peyote Poem candle.
Projection is average with longevity above average.
The 1 oz bottle retails for $125 at Bruno Fazzolari. Samples are also available for purchase.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Incense gourmand. If you read through this review, you know if this is something that appeals to you or not 😉
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*Disclaimer – Sample provided by the brand. I am not financially compensated for my reviews. My opinions are my own. Product pic from the brand. Uschi Obermaier and Rainer Langhans pic from welt.de.