I don’t consider myself a vanilla person at all. There are plenty that I’ve reviewed on EauMG that I like but not enough to buy or even wear. Vanilla haven’t ever really resonated with me. I own a few bottles (modern stuff like Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensée and Diptyque Eau Duelle) but I rarely wear them. I have old school vanillas (like in Guerlains – Shalimar, anyone?). But, I’m so incredibly picky with vanillas. I don’t like them overly simplified. I tend to like vanillas that are muted by other notes. I can’t stand when they smell waxy like a cheap candle or fake or like buttercream (all so popular in fragrance). I used to think that a vanilla couldn’t exist on its own. Now, here’s Atelier des Ors Lune Féline. It’s making me rethink everything I’ve ever thought or said about vanilla.
The opening of Lune Féline gives me life! It’s a green cardamom, balsamic green leaves and something creamy. It’s sweet and spicy yet has this unexpected greenness. The sweetness is from a boozy vanilla and balsamic notes. The spices are warm and comforting. It wears as “creamy green” with robust spices. The heart is a vanilla cardamom – a truly perfect duo. It dries down to a balsamic vanilla, incense and musk. Some times I smell it and it comes across as “amber”. Other times it’s like “heyyyy, sexy vanilla”. There’s sticky peru balsam which adds sweetness, faint smoke and a furry musk. It’s sweet but it’s not cloying. It’s sweet but not juvenile. It’s a big, spicy vanilla hug. It’s vanilla perfection.
If I could only have one vanilla perfume in my collection, it’d be Lune Feline. I’m not being dramatic when I say this is the best vanilla that I’ve ever worn. I know it sounds dramatic but I’m serious. I wasn’t even looking for a vanilla and LOOK, HERE IT IS.
Notes listed include cinnamon, cardamom, pink pepper, green notes, cedar, ambergris, woods, styrax, vanilla, peru balsam and musk. Launched in 2015. PERFUMER – Marie Salamagne
Give Lune Feline a try if you like vanilla or “grown-up gourmands”. Or perfumes like MDCI Les Indes Galantes, By Kilian Intoxicated, L’Artisan Amour Nocturne, Diptyque Eau Duelle and/or Etro Paisley.
Projection and longevity are above average.
The 3.4 oz bottle retails for $275 at Osswald. Samples are also available for purchase.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Cardamom and vanilla. I’m obsessed.
While writing this review, I was reminded of an indie soap that I absolutely loved – Naiad Cardamom Vanilla. It’s much sweeter and more like custard. However, it’s one of those sweet gourmands that I can’t help but to love. It’s the cardamom. I can’t help it.
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