There are two types of perfumes that I get asked about frequently that apparently people really, really want to smell like. One of those is marijuana. People apparently really want to smell like reefer. The other one is “makeup”. There’s entire genre of lipstick/makeup perfumes for a reason. People want to smell like it for whatever reason. As someone that wears makeup every single day, I find myself also wanting to smell like makeup…and this makes very little sense because don’t I already smell like makeup? But, here’s the deal for me. I love powdery fragrances, violets and roses, so of course, I’d like perfumes that smell like makeup. Marijuana…not so much.
Anatole Lebretron is a new-to-me brand until a couple of my “perfume pals” kept bringing up how much I’d love Incarnata. And they were absolutely right. I love Incarnata.
Incarnata opens as waxy, violet lipstick and a powder puff saturated in loose face powder. Some times when I wear it, I pick up on a waxy iris and cold cream. Other times it’s the violet and face powder, but every time, it’s waxy. It smells like a bullet of lipstick – waxy, oily, creamy and floral. Underneath all of this is the bottom of a leather handbag. It’s a worn-out suede, probably stained from blotting powder and a rogue lipstick tube. As the fragrance wears, it’s like a birch tar leather and a musky rose scented face powder. Eventually it dries down to a powdery, leathery amber and cold cream.
In contrasts to other makeup/lipstick perfumes, Incarnata is a little more experienced. What does that mean? It’s not some frou-frou or girly-girl violet-rose. It’s makeup for grown-ass ladies that don’t have time for games. It’s basically a makeup perfume that has some stories to tell and if it were giving you advice, you should listen. The leather is almost industrial (like birch tar), there’s that oily/beeswax cold cream and all of this is paired with old school French makeup. It just needs some cigarettes and a throaty voice to complete the whole aesthetic.
Notes listed include raspberry, violet, rhodendron, orris, myrrh, powdery notes, amber, suede, benzoin and vanilla. Launched in 2015. PERFUMER – Anatole Lebreton
Give Incarnata a try if you like powdery perfumes or makeup/functional fragrance perfumes. Or perfumes like Malle Lipstick Rose, Chanel Misia, Mancera Black Prestigium, Montale Orchid Powder, Guerlain Insolence, Guerlain French Kiss, Histories de Parfums 1889 Moulin Rouge and/or Narciso Rodriguez Narciso.
Projection is average. Longevity is above average.
I’m in the process of updating my 2018 “to-buy” list. Incarnata is on it.
The 1.7 oz retails for $110 at Luckyscent. Samples are also available for purchase.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Waxy lipstick, face powder and cold cream. It’s one of those vintage vanity fantasy perfumes that wants to smell like a show girl’s dressing room or grandma’s purse. There’s an odd crossover between the two.
Want more reviews? Try…
Fragrantica – Member reviews
*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Luckyscent. Bette Davis circa 1964 on “Dead Ringer” set pic from www.lipstickandcurls.net.