PURPLE FLOWERS WEEK 2017
It’s an annual tradition on EauMG to feature “purple flowers” on the week of Nowruz/Vernal Equinox. “Purple flowers” are what I call flowers that (usually) have purple blossoms and bloom in spring: lilacs, violets, iris, heliotrope, hyacinth and wisteria (when I’m feeling generous). These are the sort of florals that make me think of spring. Plus, it gives me an excuse to talk about some of my favorite floral notes.
The last few Amouage launches haven’t really interested me. But, when I heard they were launching something called “Lilac Love”, I became very interested. I’m always on the hunt for a lilac perfume that doesn’t come across as another boring lilac soliflore. Don’t get me wrong, I have many boring lilac soliflores in my collection; I just want someone to make a more complex lilac.
In the world of blogs, vlogs and other social media, I’m late to reviewing this. If you keep up with new perfume releases, you’ve probably heard that this isn’t a lilac. I partially agree, but I also disagree. In perfumery, lilac is an illusion. It’s not like a perfumer reaches over to a bottle labeled “lilac” and dumps it into your soliflore. Lilac is an accord, an impression, using various synthetic and natural aromachemicals to create something lilac-ish. That’s what Amouage Lilac Love has done. It’s given the impression of lilacs through other florals (oh, and the name and packaging doesn’t hurt when intensifying this concept).
Lilac Love opens as dewy florals and a radiant bergamot. Underneath there is a milk chocolate. But, we’ll talk about that later. Right now, it’s a huge bouquet of jasmine. It’s huge, white and overly “feminine”. At this stage, it’s like an olfactory equivalent of the dramatic white wedding gown finale of a couture runway show. As the fragrance wears, there’s an illusion of lilac. It’s a heady, powdery floral. It’s a mix of rose and jasmine, a favorite trick of perfumers to give the impression of lilacs in their peak. Now let’s talk about that chocolate. At this stage, it’s like someone dusted cocoa powder all over a fresh white lilac bouquet. The dry-down is a powdery, soft vanilla and woods. When I sniff it up close, I pick up on a mushroom-y gardenia/white floral. This keeps the dry-down from being just another generic “vanilla woods” anchor for florals like this.
Notes listed include jasmine, rose, gardenia, peony, heliotrope, orris, cacao, tonka bean, sandalwood, patchouli and vanilla. Launched in 2016.
Give Lilac Love a try if you like classic, heady florals or (non-skanky) jasmines. Or perfumes like Roja Dove Amore Mio, the florals by Roja Dove and/or the florals by Amouage.
Projection and longevity are above average.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Chocolate dusted lilacs and a huge jasmine bouquet. I think it’s absolutely gorgeous. And I also find it painful because it’s so absolutely gorgeous and has a price tag that makes me gasp. I’m actually furious that I like Lilac Love.
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*Sample obtained by me. Product pic from Fragrantica. 1957 Nina Ricci wedding dress from flickriver.com. Amazon contains an affiliate link. Thanks!