Carnation absolute is one of those raw materials that make me swoon – deep, rich, spicy with a hint of green floral. It’s one of those complex absolutes that I smell and go “This is perfume!” Sadly, carnation, as a note, is viewed as “old fashioned” but it’s not carnation’s fault. IFRA’s strict eugenol regulations have made many good carnations extinct (like Floris Malmaison). So, what happened is that many carnations are associated with a certain era and because of the regulations and costs, we don’t sniff carnation in mass produced fragrances. “Modern” carnations aren’t being produced. I’ve noticed most people will buy what is available, their tastes will change based on what they can buy (this includes perfumes, foods, clothes, etc.) People no longer have a taste for carnation…but, oh, the perfume people do.
Alchemologie Flora is a natural perfume inspired by carnation. The perfumer created this perfume as a private label, but the deal fell through (something any of us contractors can sympathize with). But, this perfume, this carnation, lived on. I think that’s a fitting tale for carnation.
Flora is a dusty, aromatic lavender in a haze of clove ciggie smoke. It opens with peach skin and spice. The heart is like a delicate, peachy green carnation smoothed by a soft, milky sandalwood and boozy vanilla. Flora dries down to a mélange of close-wearing exotic, earthy woods.
Notes listed include ho wood, wild lavender, carnation, clove bud, apricot, mitti attar, agarwood and vanilla. Launched in 2014. PERFUMER – Julianne Zaleta
Give Flora a try if you like carnation. Or if you like perfumes like Caron Bellodogia parfum, Lush Flower Market, Cartier, Les Heures de Cartier L’Heure Convoiteé II, Strange Invisible Perfumes Trapeze and/or DSH Perfumes Oeillets Rouges. Flora is unisex.
Projection and longevity are below average (it’s all-natural).
The .67 oz bottle of Flora retails for $85 at Alchemologie. Samples are also available for purchase.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Spicy, earthy carnation. It’s a great “dark”, luxurious carnation soliflore. My only complaint is longevity.
Want more reviews? Try…
Alchemologie – OK, not a review but more info on the creation of the perfume as told by the perfumer.