The best thing about indie perfumery is its freedom to take a risk. This risk is why many of us follow indie (and niche) perfumery. We want to smell perfumes that don’t smell like other perfumes. Aether Arts Magic Mushroom took a risk to be a “gourmand mushroom” perfume. This may sound rather odd but quite a few botanical perfumes depend on mushrooms to add an animalic, earthy muskiness without relying on animal-derived ingredients.
Now most of these botanical perfumes that I’m thinking about use mushrooms to give a realistic olfactory impression of florals. If you have ever smelled an “overripe” blossom, you’ll often pick up on decay, earthiness, and yep, mushrooms. My favorite gardenias have mushroom nuances. When I thought about a gourmand mushroom, I couldn’t name any. I don’t think I’ve ever tried a gourmand with an umami savoriness.
Magic Mushroom is like a “meaty” chocolate. I’m not saying it smells like meat, it’s that it is a chocolate with substance (umami). It’s a dense cocoa with earthy mushrooms. At this stage, the mushrooms are prominent and smell like porcini and earth. As Magic Mushroom wears, it gets sweeter with a warm mocha and slightly smoky pipe tobacco. Most of the wear on me is that of the dry-down. It dries down to an earthy, warm, balsamic blend of sandalwood and orris.The base is a gorgeous, cozy woods that reminds me of angora sweaters.
Magic Mushroom may sound odd but it completely works. It’s a compelling, sophisticated gourmand for the type of person that thinks they don’t like gourmands. It’s earthy, sweet and weird. I mean, it has mushrooms!
Notes listed include cocoa, mushroom, jasmine, coffee, tobacco, amyris, orris and wood note. Launched in 2015. PERFUMER – Amber Jobin
Give Magic Mushroom a try if you like the thought of a “gourmand mushroom” or if you want to try a really unexpected gourmand/chocolate/animalic. Or if you like perfumes like CB I Hate Perfume Wild Hunt, Rebel + Mercury Cerise en Cocoa, Neil Morris Mystic Dragon, Scent by Alexis Body Made Luminous and/or Olympic Orchids Seattle Chocolate. I do think to like this one, you need to like weird things. But, I feel like if you are wearing indie perfumes, you already have a more sophisticated palate (or at least are open to new experiences).
Projection is below average (it wears closely to the skin). Longevity is above average.
Magic Mushroom comes in a few sizes with the 5.5 ml bottle retails for $58 at Aether Arts. Samples are also available for purchase.
Victoria’s Final EauPINION – Umami/mushroom chocolate gourmand. It’s a weird one and that’s exactly why I like it. “Weird gourmand” is a genre I’m going to explore more.
*Extra info from the brand: This perfume is vegan. It’s composed of 75% natural ingredients and 25% synthetics.
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*Disclaimer – Sample provided by the brand. I am not financially compensated for my review. My opinions are my own. Product pic from Fragrantica. Trippy mushroom people print by George Barbier circa 1916 for La Parisienne from mermaidmushrooms.tumblr.com.