Papillon Tobacco Rose EDP Perfume Review

Papillon Tobacco Rose

ROSE WEEK 2017 – A Rose Chypre

It’s Rose Week on EauMG! This is the annual celebration of rose-centric perfumes! This week I’m reviewing 6 fragrances that display a different aspect of rose perfumes.

I’m not really one to keep secrets, but I do like a perfume that seems like it has more than a few secrets. Papillon Tobaccco Rose is one of these perfumes. It’s a dark “Neo-Noir” rose chypre that wears like a femme fatale peering out of the shadows.

Tobacco Rose opens with spicy, dried rose petals and an icy cool blackcurrant and geranium. It’s a dusty, bittersweet rose with a brilliant addition of animalic beeswax, like a candelabra being carried own a hallway… The dry-down is a balsamic, bitter moss with a velvety, raspberry Bulgarian rose. The overall feel of Tobacco Rose is dark, moody and gothic. It’s like the rose perfume equivalent of an imposing, off-limits Victorian house on a hill that is the source (and setting) of all the town’s ghost stories. All the stories involve a young woman and you never really know what happened to her fiance…

When Tobacco Rose was first launched, I said it was a “No Bullshit Rose”. So many rose compositions rely on other notes to spoon feed you a Rose. Instead of relying on crowd-pleasing vanilla, amber or woods, we are given a bitter, decaying rose. It’s really the sort of perfume for people that love smelling like perfume.

 

Hedy LaMarr

Notes listed include Bulgarian rose, rose de mai, oakmoss, ambergris, beeswax and peru balsam. Launched in 2014. PERFUMER – Liz Moores

Give Tobacco Rose a try if you like rose chypres or “dark” roses. Or perfumes like DSH Perfume Rose Vert, Union Gunpowder Rose, Providence Perfume Co. Moss Gown, Shiseido Classic/Original Zen, Amouage Jubilation for Women and/or Acqua di Parma Profumo. Try this one if you prefer for your florals to be wilting rather than in full bloom.

Projection and longevity are above average.

The 1.7 oz bottle retails for $155 at Indigo Perfumery. Samples are also available for purchase.

Victoria’s Final EauPINIONDark rose chypre. I own many rose perfumes, but I need more like Tobacco Rose in my life. Out of the niche roses launched over the past few years, this one could easily be one of my favorites.

Want more reviews? Try…

Kafkaesque

The Non-Blonde

The Silver Fox

Olfactoria’s Travels

The Candy Perfume Boy


*Sample purchased by me. Product pic from Fragrantica. Hedy Lamarr in “The Strange Woman” from archives.org.

4 thoughts on “Papillon Tobacco Rose EDP Perfume Review

  1. yep i need to try this

    decaying roses are my favorite. i have dried roses at my desk at work. i have dried roses by my bed. when i got a rose tattoo, i asked the artist to used bruise colors and to see if he could make it look like a dried rose.

    This perfume sounds like its so my type

    • YES! I absolutely love a decaying rose. In fact, right now I’m pissed that Mr.EauMG threw out roses I was drying so that I could have them out. I LOVE dried roses or a “bruised rose”. Your tattoo sounds amazing.

      So many roses are fresh, dewy. I like that but I love a decaying rose and I don’t think there’s enough of that in rose soliflores.

      • Ordered a sample and it came in yesterday. Wearing this today and it is incredible. I feel so confident wearing this. It’s distant and warming and interesting and old smelling but in this wonderful way. It totally reminds me of dried roses but where the scent hasn’t died with the flowers.

        I’m trying to convince myself that i don’t need to buy a bottle. I’ve never spent that much on a perfume but this doesn’t even fell like a perfume. it just feels like how i want to smell all the time. I’m going to be treasuring the little sample i have.

        • It is difficult for me to describe how it smells old without smelling like “ewwww, old”.

          I’d love a bottle of it but I have soooo much stuff and really need to get through what I have before bringing anything else into the house. I’m also making it a rule where I have to finish a sample before buying a bottle.

          I would love to have this as some sort of ambient fragrance. I want a creepy Victorian on a hill that smells like this. Maybe one day…

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