Ciel de Gum opens as something that is distinctively Kurkdjian-y. It’s that lemon custard with indolic white florals (something I now associate with him). There’s a voluptuous jasmine and a grape-jelly orange blossom. The rose in this is fresh and velvety. This man knows how to treat a rose. The heart blossoms on the skin. The dry-down is… Continue reading
Lavender fragrances can usually be classified as something shrill/high-pitched/cool, think like traditional eau de colognes or lavadin soaps. Or they can be what I call “low-pitched”/warm and slumbering like Serge Lutens Gris Clair or L’Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 4. Phoenix Botanicals Lavender Noir is one that fits into the latter. It’s a mellow, calm lavender.
Lavender Noir opens with a mandarin citrus over a musky lavender. Lavender is the main theme of this fragrance. Once the juicy citrus fades, Lavender Noir becomes a smoky lavender… Continue reading
Many of us (rightfully) whine about what has happened to so many of our beloved fragrances. Beauties from Guerlain, Chanel and Caron have been reformulated throughout the years. It’s a shame. However, many of these still have some character. Guerlain Shalimar still smells plush in comparison to what else is sold in department stores. Caron Bellodogia is not the same but it still smells good. Now, Chanel No. 5 is a complete and total joke in comparison to its purring vintage formula, but it does… Continue reading | 10 Comments
Naomi Goodsir is an Australian fashion designer best known for her leather goods. The house’s aesthetic is sort of couture Mad Max/haute punk. Extending the brand, the house added Cuir Velours, a boozy suede fragrance.
Cuir Velours opens with boozy rum and baby aspirin – and for some reason I love this. It then settles into this red wine and suede. And there’s French cosmetics – face powder and waxy burgundy-hued lipstick. It’s a mix of powder, violets and roses. The dry-down is a powdery incense… Continue reading | 2 Comments
In By Kilian’s Arabian Nights Collection, Oud is merely a cognomen and not a hint to actually containing oud. I think Incense Oud is an excellent fragrance despite its slightly misleading surname.
Incense Oud opens with spices, a minty rose geranium and astringent cedar. The scent is dry, spicy and woody all at once. It softens with incense resins, “fruity” spices (like pink peppercorn and cardamom) and a “fruity” rose. It’s one of those incenses that I enjoy. Soft and powdery instead of sharp and… Continue reading